Hood Flutter Investigated and Corrected

Bluegill

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🏆 GX of the Month
Jul 16, 2024
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Scottsdale, AZ
OK, the little replacement clips for the black under-hood mouse fur "insulation layer" arrived so I popped out all the factory clips with a body panel clip pulling tool. They break upon removal, not the re-usable type. The black panel is just for show, paper-thin, backed with cheapo fiberboard about as thick as a human hair.

Here is the Amazon page for the clips - $10 for 25 pieces, you need 10...always good to get extras:

Amazon.com

So, the underside of the hood panel is actually highly-engineered. Lots of structural bends, air flow slots, etc. On the topside of the hood, the outer wheel-location humps over the fenders have bends that obviously define the fenders. These major bends on each side give it plenty of rigidity in this area. Furthermore, there are little rubbery plugs that wedge between the low sides of the fender bends and the inner hood structural panel, which supports this bend line from below. See the pics below.

The problem is apparent: the topside expanse in the middle of the hood appears to be completely unconnected to, and unsupported by, the underside structural panel. Coincidentally, this is the part that flutters at highway speeds. This topside expanse is about 40" wide across the hood.

It looks like sound deadening paneling (butyl or foam padding) is not going to work because you can't apply it directly to the underside of the topside, if you see what I mean. The inner underside structural panel is in the way.

I'm thinking that some rubber spacers stuck in there (like the factory rubbery plugs already installed under the bends) would do the trick to form a wedge between the inner structural panel and the topside expanse. Or, maybe even easier, would be to spray some heat-resistant expanding foam up in the little cutouts all across the expanse. I wonder if this would bulge the hood? Probably not if you let it just expand freely and ooze out the little cutouts and the sides, then trim it clean. Would really suck to bulge your hood trying to fix a flutter...LOL. Maybe just stuff some thermal batting up in there?

Opinions?
 

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Surprised Lexus hasn't addressed this as ive seen quite a lot of complaints about it online. We get our GX soon and do a lot of 80 mph highway driving. This is gonna bug me for sure lol. Your'e probably on the right track with a fix. I'm thinking a few pieces of strategically placed felt might do it. We have 1/2" and 1" thick where I work. I'll look into once I have our vehicle lol. Great post btw.
 
Thanks for the pictures, Bill. I'm not sure if I'd trust any expanding foam to not break down and turn to powder over time. Even if it's heat resistant the constant pressure of the hood as it tries to flex or thermally expand/contract at a different rate than the inner hood piece (outer hood being in direct sun, inner hood panel being shaded) seems like it would eventually crumble the foam. I think your idea of securing some rubber shims is probably better.
 
I'll take a closer look up there...the gap is pretty wide in the middle. Also very hard to get in there with only the small openings throughout.
 
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I like that it’s open enough to “fill the gap” in a few strategic locations. That’s all it’s gonna take to shut that flutter down.
 
Yep, aluminum hood. One of the reasons it is so light and fluttery.

I agree on rubber spacers/orings/bumpers strategically placed in the gap. Slather some adhesive on the top & bottom and wedge them in there in a few key support points.

I also like the idea of thick felt but I don't want to alter the heat dissipation characteristics.

An air bladder would be interesting. Trying to think outside the box.
 
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Yep, aluminum hood. One of the reasons it is so light and fluttery.

I agree on rubber spacers/orings/bumpers strategically placed in the gap. Slather some adhesive on the top & bottom and wedge them in there in a few key support points.

I also like the idea of thick felt but I don't want to alter the heat dissipation characteristics.

An air bladder would be interesting. Trying to think outside the box.
All great ideas. Let us know which way you decide to go and appreciate the leg work you’re doing sorting this out.
 
So this morning, I followed an advice from one of the Facebook groups about raising the hood adjusters (rubber screws) and it worked. I did try this in the past and it didn't help. The reason was that I was a little gentle with the hood when trying to close. When it didn't fully latch, I would lower the screws more until it closes with a gentle/normal push. So the difference between the new height and original was not really that much, hence, it didn't make much difference with the fluttering. However, this time I closed the hood with more force so I was able to raise the screws higher.

Conclusion: Raising the rubber screws does help by allowing more air to escpace leading to less fluttering. I tested this driving at 75mph or so in opposite directions and the fluttering is definitelty less. I measured the new height for the screws, about 2cm from the top of the screw to the plastic frame around it. Hope this helps.
 
Drove the kids across town to an indoor slide park this afternoon. The hood flutter was noticeably reduced and the only difference is that I removed the underhood mouse fur trim panel. Going to try adjusting the little rubber pieces too. I read that facebook post as well.
 
OK, the little replacement clips for the black under-hood mouse fur "insulation layer" arrived so I popped out all the factory clips with a body panel clip pulling tool. They break upon removal, not the re-usable type. The black panel is just for show, paper-thin, backed with cheapo fiberboard about as thick as a human hair.

Here is the Amazon page for the clips - $10 for 25 pieces, you need 10...always good to get extras:

Amazon.com

So, the underside of the hood panel is actually highly-engineered. Lots of structural bends, air flow slots, etc. On the topside of the hood, the outer wheel-location humps over the fenders have bends that obviously define the fenders. These major bends on each side give it plenty of rigidity in this area. Furthermore, there are little rubbery plugs that wedge between the low sides of the fender bends and the inner hood structural panel, which supports this bend line from below. See the pics below.

The problem is apparent: the topside expanse in the middle of the hood appears to be completely unconnected to, and unsupported by, the underside structural panel. Coincidentally, this is the part that flutters at highway speeds. This topside expanse is about 40" wide across the hood.

It looks like sound deadening paneling (butyl or foam padding) is not going to work because you can't apply it directly to the underside of the topside, if you see what I mean. The inner underside structural panel is in the way.

I'm thinking that some rubber spacers stuck in there (like the factory rubbery plugs already installed under the bends) would do the trick to form a wedge between the inner structural panel and the topside expanse. Or, maybe even easier, would be to spray some heat-resistant expanding foam up in the little cutouts all across the expanse. I wonder if this would bulge the hood? Probably not if you let it just expand freely and ooze out the little cutouts and the sides, then trim it clean. Would really suck to bulge your hood trying to fix a flutter...LOL. Maybe just stuff some thermal batting up in there?

Opinions?
Great investigative work.

What about trimmable foam inserts like this?
1723472817437.png



I also think that spray foam would work also seeing that there are many opening for the expanding to ooze out of.
 
I like the idea of soft foam or felt or whatever but there are two issues:
1. Getting the material up in there - I don't want to start cutting access holes.
2. How would it handle the heat? Would it just crumble after a while and make a mess, start an engine fire? Also, would it retain heat and/or alter the heat dissipation design of the engine bay?

I'll adjust the rubber stoppers at some point today and then I have to do some highway driving for work. I'll also look closely at how I could get some rubber plugs up in there. I think a few rubber plugs strategically placed would do the trick. Figure out where you could place them, slather some industrial heat-proof adhesive on them top & bottom, and wedge them in place. Need some long surgical tongs or something to reach in there. This might get ridiculous.
 
I have a stash of furniture pads made from both foam rubber and felt. All have adhesive backing and range in size 1”-3” dia. Seems about perfect for the job.
 
Bill, what is the
That does look like the product to use. I don't really want to remove my hood to fix this flutter, though.
Feed a heavy duty large trash bag between the inner and outer hood pieces with the opening of the bag near the front of the hood - higher up. Attach a clear plastic tube to the foam tip and put the other end in the bag. Push the push into the bag and let it expand into the bag. That seems like it could work without taking the hood off. And if the opening of the bag is collected at the opening you had your finger in in one of your pictures you should be able to zip-tie it close to make sure that even if the foam crumbles it won't come out.
 

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