ARB Breather Kit Install

Ward38

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Since I didn't find anyone that had posted about this for the GX550, I thought I would document the process a bit.
My last backwoods camping vehicles was an LR4 with solid wading depth from the factory. Not seeing much info on the GX wading depth, I started digging and was surprised to find Toyota and Lexus essentially have no raised breathers on the rear differentials.

Fortunately, I was able to find quite a few good resources from other models that made this pretty straight forward!
Good info here:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/240134-tying-all-breathers-together-arb-170112-a.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/215741-rear-differential-breather-mod-dummies.html

I did a little bit of digging and crawling around underneath the GX to try and identify all the breather locations and see what needed to be relocated to higher ground.

From the front back -
Front Differential - easily located and routed pretty high in the engine bay on the driver's side between the engine and the air intake filter box. I forgot to grab a picture beforehand, but here's a sneak peak ahead showing the overall area.
Front Diff.png
IMG_5165.png



Transmission - Not as easy to see from underneath, but finally located the termination point high up on the center of the firewall. Transmission is the clear plastic breather.
Transmission.png
IMG_5159.png
IMG_5160.png


Transfer Case / Center Diff Locker - Pretty easy to locate on the Transfer Case, but hard to trace. Two one-way metal check valves just like the front differential breathers, terminate alongside the Transmission Breather (seen above).
Transfer Case and Center Diff Lock.png


Rear Differential - Same as all the other Toyota/Lexus models, right on the top of the Rear Differential.
Rear Diff.png
IMG_5161.png

I was surprised not to find any additional hardware or breathers from the rear differential locker. There were a few electrical connections on the side of the differential housing, but not very large, and no breather lines.
If I missed something here, someone please let me know!

I removed the spare tire for some extra visibility and to search for any other breathers. Plus, it gave me a good opportunity to get familiar with the functionality. Good news is it worked great and I learned that I want to put the tool kit with our other recovery gear when off roading to avoid having to unload too much of the cargo area to get to them.

I went with the ARB Diff Breather Kit which worked great and came with everything I needed, mostly.
The mounting location I chose was on the driver's side of the firewall under the cover for the brake booster and fluid reservoir. There was a small item that looked like it was a horn/beeper for the doors mounted on a single strip of metal and attached on one end.
I fabbed up a replacement bracket and extended it to provide a mounting point and avoid drilling holes in the GX with the ARB provided self-tapping screws.

IMG_5164.jpg


After watching ARB's install video and a few others, it was clear that the fittings would directly replace the one on the rear differential and the hose from the ARB kit could easily be inserted into the existing rubber hose on for the front differential after removing the original breather.
The OEM rubber hose was 1/4" ID and the OD of the ARB line was 1/4", providing a nice snug fit.

In the engine bay for the front differential the rubber hose provided just enough flex to avoid any additional fittings and allowed clean routing to the new breather location.
IMG_5166.png


For the rear, I started routing the hose from the mounting location down into the engine bay, and quickly onto the top of the frame under the driver's side of the cab toward the back and across the cross member just forward of the rear wheel well.
I would take a little extra time to make sure the route used is as direct and free of rubbing areas - I had to reroute each end to get it where I wanted after not being too diligent on the initial run.
Once at the rear I left a decent coil (crudely outlined in red using paint), probably larger than necessary based on the excess of the brake lines, then inserted the hose in the quick push connect fitting from the ARB kit. Appropriately placed zip ties all the way back to the front should prevent any unwanted movement.

IMG_5163.jpg


Back in the engine compartment - Final trimming of the hoses followed by installation of the new bracket and mounted ARB manifold only left making the two connections of the hoses.

All finished!
IMG_5167.png


I thought it turned out all right.
I hope someone else finds this useful.
 

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Nicely done! That surprised me that the breather for the rear diff terminates right on top of the diff!
 
Routed mine to fuel area!
 

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Thanks so much for this writeup, @Ward38. This is something I was planning to tackle as well and you just saved me a lot of time and research. So all you had to buy was the ARB breather kit + material to make your own bracket?
 
Thanks so much for this writeup, @Ward38. This is something I was planning to tackle as well and you just saved me a lot of time and research. So all you had to buy was the ARB breather kit + material to make your own bracket?
Glad it helped!

Correct the ARB kit was all I needed. Fortunately for me we use a wide variety of materials at work and I was able to pick up some scrap and use the brakes and shears to make quick work of it.

I believe the OEM strip that I removed was 0.050" and you can probably grab a small piece of stainless from your local hardware store if needed.
 
It may not have been clear, but I decided not to relocate the Transmission and Transfer Case/Center Diff breathers since they were near the top of the firewall.
If you want to tie them into the ARB manifold you will need to combine them with a fitting and route another line for them.
 
I was surprised not to find any additional hardware or breathers from the rear differential locker. There were a few electrical connections on the side of the differential housing, but not very large, and no breather lines.
If I missed something here, someone please let me know!
I believe this is because all the diff lock components are housed within the differential so it does not need its own breather. This seems to be the case for 3rd gen and newer Tacomas as well.
It may not have been clear, but I decided not to relocate the Transmission and Transfer Case/Center Diff breathers since they were near the top of the firewall.
If you want to tie them into the ARB manifold you will need to combine them with a fitting and route another line for them.
That seems like a pain in the butt. Since the rear diff is the only one that needs attention, I think I will save some money and just run a Dorman breather from a union on the rear diff.
 
I just did my rear diff breather since I was down there upgrading my bump stops anyway. I decided I did not want to route a hose to the engine bay OR do any drilling or permanent modification, so my breather is at the top of the rear wheel well, above the fender liner. I added a sintered brass filter inline just in case any dust gets by. The hose is routed through an existing opening between the fender liner and body of the vehicle. Quite pleased with the result. If there is sufficient interest, I can do a full writeup. LMK.

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Hi Ward38 - great and informative post - many thanks!

How far up the engine firewall do the breathers from the tranny and front diff rise? Are they capped with a valve and filter to prevent water or dust entering?

My reason for asking is that I'd recently done some water crossings without the extension kit installed, so I asked Lexus to check my diff and tranny oils. To my surprise they found the oil in the diffs & tranny was discolored but no water was present. They suggested that it could be due to dirt or dust, but I had not had this happen with previous 4WDs.
 
I just did my rear diff breather since I was down there upgrading my bump stops anyway. I decided I did not want to route a hose to the engine bay OR do any drilling or permanent modification, so my breather is at the top of the rear wheel well, above the fender liner. I added a sintered brass filter inline just in case any dust gets by. The hose is routed through an existing opening between the fender liner and body of the vehicle. Quite pleased with the result. If there is sufficient interest, I can do a full writeup. LMK.

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How difficult was this to install?
 
How difficult was this to install?
Super easy.

Here is a parts list:
Sintered brass filter: Amazon.com
Union: 90404-51319
2 Way Breather plug: 90930-03136
You will also need some type of sealant for the threads (I prefer not to use plumbers tape as some moders do because its not made for automotive use): https://www.autozone.com/p/permatex-thread-locker-59214p/526913?spps.s=5944&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:ALO:GOO:TRS:SHO:OTE:GEN:NA:ALA:NA:NA:NA:NA:NA:NA:NA&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22356757832&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVvdUsuSZVCnYZyyDjImLKQGE&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7IjOBhDyARIsAFzrWQzAGHn4rx5OV29HsYXHs8TgBVjRMMSnmmhixKff3VPpB4x67FPjJXoaAoL6EALw_wcB&new_store_set=true
Fuel line and hose clamps: Amazon.com


Steps:

1) Optional: Get the rear of the vehicle up on ramps or jack stands for more room to work
2) Drop the spare
3) Locate the old 1 way breather on top of the diff and replace it with the union. Use sealant on the threads otherwise it may let water into your diff!
4) Attach the fuel line to the union with a hose clamp
5) Route the hose up anywhere high enough where it will never get submerged and terminate the hose with the filter and the 2 way breather. Make sure you leave enough slack for axle droop. Hose clamp/zip tie everything and make sure its secure.

Looking back, I would probably route it inside the cabin but the wheel well works. Also, I would argue that if you are fording water above the tires, you are already exceeding the maximum fording depth of the vehicle and you have other things to worry about.
 
Last edited:
Super easy.

Here is a parts list:
Sintered brass filter: Amazon.com
Union: 90404-51319
2 Way Breather plug: 90930-03136
You will also need some type of sealant for the threads (I prefer not to use plumbers tape as some moders do because its not made for automotive use): https://www.autozone.com/p/permatex-thread-locker-59214p/526913?spps.s=5944&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:ALO:GOO:TRS:SHO:OTE:GEN:NA:ALA:NA:NA:NA:NA:NA:NA:NA&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22356757832&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVvdUsuSZVCnYZyyDjImLKQGE&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7IjOBhDyARIsAFzrWQzAGHn4rx5OV29HsYXHs8TgBVjRMMSnmmhixKff3VPpB4x67FPjJXoaAoL6EALw_wcB&new_store_set=true
Fuel line and hose clamps: Amazon.com


Steps:

1) Optional: Get the rear of the vehicle up on ramps or jack stands for more room to work
2) Drop the spare
3) Locate the old 1 way breather on top of the diff and replace it with the union. Use sealant on the threads otherwise it may let water into your diff!
4) Attach the fuel line to the union with a hose clamp
5) Route the hose up anywhere high enough where it will never get submerged and terminate the hose with the filter and the 2 way breather. Hose clamp everything and make sure its secure.

Looking back, I would probably route it inside the cabin but the wheel well works. Also, I would argue that if you are fording water above the tires, you are already exceeding the maximum fording depth of the vehicle and you have other things to worry about.
Wow - thanks for the info sir!
 
Hi Ward38 - great and informative post - many thanks!

How far up the engine firewall do the breathers from the tranny and front diff rise? Are they capped with a valve and filter to prevent water or dust entering?

My reason for asking is that I'd recently done some water crossings without the extension kit installed, so I asked Lexus to check my diff and tranny oils. To my surprise they found the oil in the diffs & tranny was discolored but no water was present. They suggested that it could be due to dirt or dust, but I had not had this happen with previous 4WDs.
There stock breathers are near the top of the firewall and they are basically a cap that allows air in and out. There is no filter. However, there is no way you would get enough dust in there to discolor your oil. Its not a constant vacuum so any dust that gets in just migrated there through a tiny opening.

Differential oil is hygroscopic so it will absorb moisture from the air, but like your motor oil, it burns off when the diff comes up to operating temperature and is held there. Is your truck mainly used for short trips?
 

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