Interesting review of ourr engine´s issuuee...
Still really worrriieed aboout this...
Dave´s Auto Center V35A-FTS Tear Down
- Thread starter Angelitopstar27
- Start date
Interesting review of ourr engine´s issuuee...
Still really worrriieed aboout this...
Owners should be worried. This V35A engine issue is likely far from over.
I just watched this video yesterday. There was debris everywhere in that engine. It spun crankshaft bearings!
The base Lexus powertrain warranty is "...72 months or 70,000 miles, whichever occurs first."
Reference: Lexus Warranty | Lexus.com
The above is before any extended warranty coverage. With that kind of coverage, it's worth bluntly asking what exactly should owners be worried about?
Personally, I’m not worried. I could see how some could be, though, because they don’t want to deal with the headache or be turned off by the idea of an engine replacement.
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I mean, I´ve got 120 months or 200,000 kms of warranty for my Gx550 overtrail and my Lx600 luxury..
It worries me , cause the fact of an engine replacement scares me. It´s and absurd fear but it ´s there...
then I drive it and forget bout it...
It worries me , cause the fact of an engine replacement scares me. It´s and absurd fear but it ´s there...
then I drive it and forget bout it...
Seems like Dave is agreeing with Toyota that it was a debris cleaning issue, not a problem related to main bearing design. Not saying the main bearing design couldnt be better, but that the leftover debris caused the problem.
This gives me relief as a 26 owner because it was caught and announced in 24/25. I would think they implemented the debris clearing step improvement in 25.
Some folks here are worried this is going to be a continuous problem and I’m missing something.
This gives me relief as a 26 owner because it was caught and announced in 24/25. I would think they implemented the debris clearing step improvement in 25.
Some folks here are worried this is going to be a continuous problem and I’m missing something.
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Agree, that engine has it bad.
I get a whole lot more from Dave's videos than from Car Care Nut's vids. This vid is one more example.
Edit to add:
I've watched this video three times, so far. High points to me:
- Dave measures the actual thickness of the debris at 10:48:
- Oil clearance/tolerance for the engine is 1/1000 to 1.5/1000 inches.
- The debris was measured at 3.5/1000 inches thick.
- He gives a great summary from 28:00 to app. 30:00.
- For never having worked on this engine (1:15, 3:57, 13:03) Dave has an impressive understanding of some fine details. The wall clock might give away if he went offline and looked up some specs and manuals, as he himself recommends one should do, but still he clearly knows details.
- At 15:05 there's this most excellent exchange, and tip:
- Dave: What would be the easiest way to diagnose if you have this problem?
- JJ: It won't turnover!
- Dave: No, no, ...
- JJ: Crack open the oil filter!
- Dave: Dude, you're correct! You don't have to tear the whole engine apart.
- There are a few posts with pics on here showing what others found in doing this.
- If I ever had to start over with a new career out of high school I'd want to be JJ!
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What’s the best or recommended way to cut or pop open my oil filter? What do you forum members recommend to do that?
I’m willing to sawzall into my next old filter; if so..which direction (orientation) should I cut?
Thanks for any tech assistance..advice.
DJ
I’m willing to sawzall into my next old filter; if so..which direction (orientation) should I cut?
Thanks for any tech assistance..advice.
DJ
Just when I thought I could make it a week without an Amazon order . . .
I've used a Dremel in the past, just cut as shallow as possible and be cognizant of the fact that you're creating metal shavings just under the surface of the metal on the inside (don't freak out when you see some metal particles from cutting). Can also use tin snips - punch a hole and cut. I'm planning on keeping my filter at my next Lexus dealership oil change and using some snips.
I also never knew an oil filter cutter tool exists.
For anyone thinking of DIY-ing this, be aware the lower your miles the less debris you will have.
If I understand the explanation in the video, and I believe it do understand it, the initial debris left over from manufacturing is a fraction, let’s say 5%, of what is shown in the holes and surfaces throughout the video.
That debris left over from manufacturing starts a snowball effect. The most vulnerable component, the no. 1 bearing starts failing first (because it’s handling much more force than other bearings and other components). In failing, the no. 1 bearing starts to produce debris (shown 26:34), which is circulated in the oil, which causes further failures in other components, the oil pump surface shown (6:54) in the vid, camshaft bearings (13:48, 15:06), a cylinder wall (21:18, 21:53 and 23:46), etc.
To adversely add to this, the very small diameter oil passages get constricted or clogged, the effect of which is less oil is passed and the lubricated components heat up much more than intended. In a turbo engine this effect is double-triple the norm because of high temps and pressures. Those components start failing, warping, burning, more surfaces get etched and scratched away.
The technical way to state all this is the quantity of debris increases exponentially over time. The engine in that video had a lot of time to make and to circulate debris. In fact, if the mileage or time on the engine were below the Toyota powertrain warranty then the owner would have had it replaced by Toyota rather than paying for a rebuild out of his/her own pocket.
So say it again, low mileage, newer vehicles will have less debris than in the video.
I’d love to see some pics of opened oil filters, because I now plan to look at mine at 5k miles.
There is a thread on CL (look for “Just did my break in oil change at around 1000 miles. Glad I did!”) where someone opened an oil filter on an IS 500. You can clearly see metal particles in the filter media. But the mileage was at 1000 miles, and some of the specs of metal are hard to see in the pictures.
For anyone thinking of DIY-ing this, be aware the lower your miles the less debris you will have.
If I understand the explanation in the video, and I believe it do understand it, the initial debris left over from manufacturing is a fraction, let’s say 5%, of what is shown in the holes and surfaces throughout the video.
That debris left over from manufacturing starts a snowball effect. The most vulnerable component, the no. 1 bearing starts failing first (because it’s handling much more force than other bearings and other components). In failing, the no. 1 bearing starts to produce debris (shown 26:34), which is circulated in the oil, which causes further failures in other components, the oil pump surface shown (6:54) in the vid, camshaft bearings (13:48, 15:06), a cylinder wall (21:18, 21:53 and 23:46), etc.
To adversely add to this, the very small diameter oil passages get constricted or clogged, the effect of which is less oil is passed and the lubricated components heat up much more than intended. In a turbo engine this effect is double-triple the norm because of high temps and pressures. Those components start failing, warping, burning, more surfaces get etched and scratched away.
The technical way to state all this is the quantity of debris increases exponentially over time. The engine in that video had a lot of time to make and to circulate debris. In fact, if the mileage or time on the engine were below the Toyota powertrain warranty then the owner would have had it replaced by Toyota rather than paying for a rebuild out of his/her own pocket.
So say it again, low mileage, newer vehicles will have less debris than in the video.
I’d love to see some pics of opened oil filters, because I now plan to look at mine at 5k miles.
There is a thread on CL (look for “Just did my break in oil change at around 1000 miles. Glad I did!”) where someone opened an oil filter on an IS 500. You can clearly see metal particles in the filter media. But the mileage was at 1000 miles, and some of the specs of metal are hard to see in the pictures.
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That's what the filter is for
You could get a magnetic drain bolt but IMO the type of debris that's going to be causing issues isn't going to be caught by magnets & the normal oil filters/screens
I don't know anything more than any other auto hobbyist/enthusiast/DIY-er/weekend shade-tree mechanic.
And my opinion is: If the auto manufacturers or the third-party parts suppliers (Fram, Wix, Purolator, Bosch, ... any of them), thought this to be a good idea then they clearly would have done it by now. Also note in the video neither Dave nor JJ the understudy mentioned use of a magnet.
However, hold that thought. Because I do plan to use a magnet when I break open my 5k mile oil filter. Juts as a curiosity to see if it picks up anything.
Yes, he is agreeing with Toyota. At 28:14 he says "Yes, I would say Toyota called that right, this motor is full of debris..."
I ordered the oil filter cutter and should be able to open my 5k filter in a couple days when I receive it. I'll post my evaluation thereafter.
The folks reading this post likely aren’t the ones that need to hear it but this is why we change our oil much sooner than the 10K recommended interval. Turbos/debris is a death sentence for an engine.
I still have my first oil filter from the break in oil change at ~300 miles. I’ve been meaning to cut it open but haven’t found the time. I expect there will be a decent amount of debris (which is expected for any new engine, to a point). Looking forward to seeing @Garauld analysis.
I still have my first oil filter from the break in oil change at ~300 miles. I’ve been meaning to cut it open but haven’t found the time. I expect there will be a decent amount of debris (which is expected for any new engine, to a point). Looking forward to seeing @Garauld analysis.
📷 Lexus GX 550 Random Images
📷 Lexus GX 550 Random Images
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