Guys this just has me baffled that Lexus puts out a beautiful designed SUV for $80,000 ish and you all got to come up with Jimmy Riged fixes. My 2015 F-150 is all aluminum and the only flexing I get is on the hood going through the car wash, and I can handle that. Oh once in a while meeting a semi on a two lane doing 70 plus. You can't tell me Lexus can't come up with something.
Hood Flutter Investigated and Corrected
- Thread starter Bluegill
- Start date
I'm not sure what engine compartment temps get up to but regarding any type of expanding foam idea - read the product info first. Flashpoints for the following......
- Great Stuff Fireblock Insulating Spray Foam Sealant product brochure......"DuPont Polyurethane Foam Insulation and Sealants. CAUTION: When cured, these products are combustible and will burn if exposed to open flame or sparks from high-energy sources. Do not expose to temperatures above 240oF (116oC)."
- 3M Fireblock Foam - Orange FB Foam...... Heat resistant up to 240°F (115°C)
- 3M Flexible Foam #08463 (for autos)...... "Flashpoint >300'
- Thread starter
- #43
I looked closer and there are actually little rubber spacers (or maybe it's injected expanding goo) in multiple locations between the inner structural panel and the outer skin. Whatever the factory did is clearly not doing the job. Yesterday I simply jammed some folded-over cardboard in the spaces and it made a huge difference. Didn't get to the hardware store yet but I will tomorrow to see about some rubber spacers.
- Thread starter
- #44
You're correct! I hope Lexus does come up with something. In the meantime I'm thinking that wedging something in there in multiple locations is the temporary fix. I don't want to spray in an expanding foam and make a mess that can't be reversed. I'm also worried about the heat as many others have pointed out.
Silicone will stick but remain flexible, heat not an issue. would there be access to place some support blobs? removable with a dental pick. ??
- Thread starter
- #46
I nearly have this licked. Stay tuned. Film at 11:00.
- Thread starter
- #47
So the hood flutter is pretty much gone - the whole hood still shakes a bit up & down at around 80 mph but the waviness in the center panel is gone.
What I ended up doing is sliding in some long, thin, flat aluminum that I had sitting in the corner of the garage. I had a piece of 1/16" thick X 1-1/4" wide X 4' long stock and I slid it in behind the inner structural shell and the outer skin - the piece of aluminum makes a bow shape when the ends are wedged on either side of the structural panel. The bow shape gently pushes on the outer hood skin.
I went to the hardware store and picked up two more 4-foot lengths of thicker aluminum (1/8" thick) and less wide (1" wide) because I thought the 1/16" was a bit too weak and the 1/8" would press more firmly on the outer skin. When I tried to slide the 1/8" in the upper portion (see the photos) it was too stiff and you could see it pushing out the outer skin from above. I didn't want to crease or dent the outer skin so I didn't push it. I cut down the length of the 1/16" thick piece and slid it in the upper, shorter section and I used a 1/8" thick piece (full 4-ft length) in the longer middle section. The way the openings in the structural panel work, the longer run bows the piece of aluminum less, so the thicker piece works here. I also slid some cardboard between the ends of the longer run of aluminum because it was scratching the white paint. It's all covered so it really doesn't matter but I don't want to have the aluminum dig into the hood.
I'll let this ride for a while and see how it goes. Maybe another 1/16" piece slid in there through a set of openings might help.
What I ended up doing is sliding in some long, thin, flat aluminum that I had sitting in the corner of the garage. I had a piece of 1/16" thick X 1-1/4" wide X 4' long stock and I slid it in behind the inner structural shell and the outer skin - the piece of aluminum makes a bow shape when the ends are wedged on either side of the structural panel. The bow shape gently pushes on the outer hood skin.
I went to the hardware store and picked up two more 4-foot lengths of thicker aluminum (1/8" thick) and less wide (1" wide) because I thought the 1/16" was a bit too weak and the 1/8" would press more firmly on the outer skin. When I tried to slide the 1/8" in the upper portion (see the photos) it was too stiff and you could see it pushing out the outer skin from above. I didn't want to crease or dent the outer skin so I didn't push it. I cut down the length of the 1/16" thick piece and slid it in the upper, shorter section and I used a 1/8" thick piece (full 4-ft length) in the longer middle section. The way the openings in the structural panel work, the longer run bows the piece of aluminum less, so the thicker piece works here. I also slid some cardboard between the ends of the longer run of aluminum because it was scratching the white paint. It's all covered so it really doesn't matter but I don't want to have the aluminum dig into the hood.
I'll let this ride for a while and see how it goes. Maybe another 1/16" piece slid in there through a set of openings might help.
- Thread starter
- #49
My hood was waving like Old Glory. Didn't make any noise, but was distracting at highway speeds.
And now you will never un-see it.
I find myself even proactively looking for it which is so annoying.
We've had our OT+ for a week and taken two short road trips and at 70+ hwy the hood flutter is pretty bad. I've had passengers notice it and say the same. Our 2014 4Runner is rock solid. I will be reporting it to the dealership and looking into some of the fixes. Will report back.
We've had our OT+ for a week and taken two short road trips and at 70+ hwy the hood flutter is pretty bad. I've had passengers notice it and say the same. Our 2014 4Runner is rock solid. I will be reporting it to the dealership and looking into some of the fixes. Will report back
Still love the vehicle though! Hood flutter is a very minor complaint. She's a beast.
Oh yes, driving on the 130 tollway from Austin. 85mph it almost looked like the hood was unlatched. I pulled off the road to check. It was concerning for sure. By the way it’s an incognito Premium Plus, love the way it drives!
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Hi Folks. Got my wife a Land Cruiser First Edition in June and have driven it quite a bit (over her protests). Yesterday picked up my Overtrail at Lexus Latham, NY and drove it home to Vermont (around 200 miles). Mix of Interstate, state “highways”, and back roads. I am Type A (especially after following this and a couple other threads on the Forum!). Happy to say I noticed no discernible hood flutter, zero unusual vibration, and the ride is a little different but, in my view better, than the Cruiser. Hope this remains the case for many years to come.
PS. I deleted the factory roof rack based on the Forum comments about excessive wind noise. Since the LC has a factory rack, which is very quiet by the way, probably won’t add Westcott or other rack. Also deleted the factory rock rails (have them on the LC and they seem fine but will probably swap the “free” running boards for Dissent Offroad rock rails when they confirm they install on Overtrail without drilling.
Safe and happy travels all.
PS. I deleted the factory roof rack based on the Forum comments about excessive wind noise. Since the LC has a factory rack, which is very quiet by the way, probably won’t add Westcott or other rack. Also deleted the factory rock rails (have them on the LC and they seem fine but will probably swap the “free” running boards for Dissent Offroad rock rails when they confirm they install on Overtrail without drilling.
Safe and happy travels all.
Attachments
Welcome to the forum.
Thank you!
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Upon doing some research, this is actually a pretty typical issue with many car manufacturers. The reason is that not enough adhesive is placed b/w the frame and hood skin, or the adhesive peel off and not provide enough adhesion, or the stopper is not adjusted properly. For the stoppers adjustment, you can do this yourself and hope the issue is fixed. However, if it doesn't, you'll have to add glue to your hood. There are several car manufacturers issued SB to address the adhesive issue. I don't think you can have Lexus doing anything about this. There are several that buy the adhesive and do this repair themselves. They don't recommend just adding any glue. It need to be flexible with temperatures to not create a dimple on your hood. I dont' think using expanding foam is a solution either, as this doesn't link your hood skin to frame for support and don't know how it will react with temperatures.
Btw, on waiting list for my GX Premium+.... Just doing research on issues to checkout once mine arrived.
Stopper Adjustment:
www.gr86.org
Adhesive:
mazda.oemdtc.com
Btw, on waiting list for my GX Premium+.... Just doing research on issues to checkout once mine arrived.
Stopper Adjustment:
Hood Flutter
Adhesive:
Hood Vibrates when Driving at Highway Speeds - 2013-2014 Mazda CX-5
2013-2014 CX-5 - HOOD VIBRATION WHILE DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEED APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS 2013-2014 CX-5 vehicles with VINs lower than JM3KE******387092 (produced before September 1, 2013)...
mazda.oemdtc.com
I don't see the hood flutter, but I don't see the center of the hood while driving at speeds it would appear.
Curious about how tall people are. I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam. When sitting in the GX and just driving around I don't see the middle of the hood at all, unless I try of course.
Curious about how tall people are. I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam. When sitting in the GX and just driving around I don't see the middle of the hood at all, unless I try of course.
