If it were body mounts & bushings wouldn’t it affect all models? I really think some units have a defective sensor within the AVS or EKDSS
I am intrigued by this idea but not sure how this can be verified, maybe some special equipment, hmm.
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If it were body mounts & bushings wouldn’t it affect all models? I really think some units have a defective sensor within the AVS or EKDSS
Mine isn't the AVS or it's sensor(s), because it's unhooked now and those shocks are sitting in a box in my garage. Could be a sensor on the eKDSS though. Maybe...but I have disabled the eKDSS by pulling the fuse and it didn't change the ride, although I have NOT ever disconnected the physical connections of the sway bars etc. or removed them. Why couldn't some models (and not others) have bad body mounts? I don't know much about body mounts in general, but I just know that I do notice vibrations from the engine come through my seat more than perhaps I should, even when parked with engine on, so that's why I am speculating that. The engine idle vibration could be me just being oversensitive to it too trying to figure this suspension thing out. I dunno. At this point I have basically decided to live with it, but will continue to report back here with anything else I find.If it were body mounts & bushings wouldn’t it affect all models? I really think some units have a defective sensor within the AVS or EKDSS
Not saying it can’t happen just thinking it was be more pervasive if that was the case. Intriguing for sureMine isn't the AVS or it's sensor(s), because it's unhooked now and those shocks are sitting in a box in my garage. Could be a sensor on the eKDSS though. Maybe...but I have disabled the eKDSS by pulling the fuse and it didn't change the ride, although I have NOT ever disconnected the physical connections of the sway bars etc. or removed them. Why couldn't some models (and not others) have bad body mounts? I don't know much about body mounts in general, but I just know that I do notice vibrations from the engine come through my seat more than perhaps I should, even when parked with engine on, so that's why I am speculating that. The engine idle vibration could be me just being oversensitive to it too trying to figure this suspension thing out. I dunno. At this point I have basically decided to live with it, but will continue to report back here with anything else I find.
Well Lexus BNE came through and have provided me with the “Elevate” package which gives me the same benefits as Platinum. Still no word on the specialist to look at the vibration issue…That’s really sh$t mate, I hope they first find the faults with the vibrations as we are all suffering with this crap in some degree and then they should honour your encore platinum, you pay enough for the car in Aus you deserve the coverage.
I will be keeping my fingers crossed for you.
I also came from a lifted Gladiator and made the switch to the Premium GX550, but ever since I put 285/75/17’s on here, it’s been vibrating worse than my Jeep ever did. I can understand some road feel when swapping from a 20” wheel and street tires, but this is getting annoying. The rear seats are always rattling around in my rear view, no matter how smooth the road is. Is this a Lexus suspension issue?Two weeks in (and one 4 hour road trip down). I'm luckily not feeling the random vibrations at lower speeds, though at higher highway speeds (80+), you definitely feel some vibrations from the tires. I'm coming out of a lifted Gladiator, so this thing rides like a dream and the User Interface/Infotainment is one of the best I've seen and the opposite of every (crappy) Toyota/Lexus UI from the past. Other than that, the hood does flex a little at speed and the gas tank is too small for the size of the vehicle.
I have aftermarket suspension now and I believe it is NOT the shocks or springs. I think it may have something to do with the sway bar connections. Trying to figure out how to temporarily disconnect them, physically do that. Not just pull the fuse, to see if it changes.I also came from a lifted Gladiator and made the switch to the Premium GX550, but ever since I put 285/75/17’s on here, it’s been vibrating worse than my Jeep ever did. I can understand some road feel when swapping from a 20” wheel and street tires, but this is getting annoying. The rear seats are always rattling around in my rear view, no matter how smooth the road is. Is this a Lexus suspension issue?
Been wondering the same thing since December, and also, if any way it could be the Overtrail rear diff.I have aftermarket suspension now and I believe it is NOT the shocks or springs. I think it may have something to do with the sway bar connections. Trying to figure out how to temporarily disconnect them, physically do that. Not just pull the fuse, to see if it changes.
I can also tell you that after my tech tried to disconnect it manually, and then realized it would be much more involved and put it back, the bumpiness felt a lot more significant. But he also did the diff drop that day, so who knows!? I did drive it without the engine skid on as well. My next move is to put it into 4lo, and then pull the KDSS fuse, then put it back in 4hi and drive it on the road. I have already pulled the KDSS fuse and drove it, but after I did that, I realized that the sway bars remain connected, so I would have to pull the fuse when they are not connected somehow. I am not sure that simply putting it into low range will actually completely disconnect all the sway bars at once, since eKDSS is an active system. I wonder if there is some "secret" dealer mode you can put the truck into whereby it completely disconnects? I feel 100% certain that is there was, my freaking dealer wouldn't know about it, sigh. Maybe somebody on here can shed light on this?Been wondering the same thing since December, and also, if any way it could be the Overtrail rear diff.
I’ve been planning to force the eKDSS into operation back and forth, over and over.. Have a tight, rugged, steep mini canyon near my house I plan to use….
Also, just did a road trip last weekend in it with family and full trunk of stuff, but not too heavy of stuff (firewood, suitcases, food, etc), and I almost felt it drove rougher with the load than not, which is a first. Now, that might have something to do with my aftermarket setup...I will keep investigating!I can also tell you that after my tech tried to disconnect it manually, and then realized it would be much more involved and put it back, the bumpiness felt a lot more significant. But he also did the diff drop that day, so who knows!? I did drive it without the engine skid on as well. My next move is to put it into 4lo, and then pull the KDSS fuse, then put it back in 4hi and drive it on the road. I have already pulled the KDSS fuse and drove it, but after I did that, I realized that the sway bars remain connected, so I would have to pull the fuse when they are not connected somehow. I am not sure that simply putting it into low range will actually completely disconnect all the sway bars at once, since eKDSS is an active system. I wonder if there is some "secret" dealer mode you can put the truck into whereby it completely disconnects? I feel 100% certain that is there was, my freaking dealer wouldn't know about it, sigh. Maybe somebody on here can shed light on this?
eKDSS does not disconnect the sway bar. What it does is relocate the point (rear) or points (front) that the sway bar connects to the frame. This allows one side of the front or rear to droop while the other side compresses, or vice-versa , without twisting the sway bar. But if the fuse is pulled during one of those conditions and the eKDSS can't relocate back then it will be the equivalent of twisting the sway bar with both left and right sides at equal compression, thus transferring more weight to one of the wheels.I can also tell you that after my tech tried to disconnect it manually, and then realized it would be much more involved and put it back, the bumpiness felt a lot more significant. But he also did the diff drop that day, so who knows!? I did drive it without the engine skid on as well. My next move is to put it into 4lo, and then pull the KDSS fuse, then put it back in 4hi and drive it on the road. I have already pulled the KDSS fuse and drove it, but after I did that, I realized that the sway bars remain connected, so I would have to pull the fuse when they are not connected somehow. I am not sure that simply putting it into low range will actually completely disconnect all the sway bars at once, since eKDSS is an active system. I wonder if there is some "secret" dealer mode you can put the truck into whereby it completely disconnects? I feel 100% certain that is there was, my freaking dealer wouldn't know about it, sigh. Maybe somebody on here can shed light on this?
Update from Lexus on replacement was denied it’s not surprising however it is surprising they have ghosted those with this issue I’ve been running wild peak LT (3ply sidewall) at 28psi just to tolerate the passenger seat shake…helps but mileage dropped from 19-15 mpgIt is an option and they opened that avenue for me to pursue, however I don’t want to part ways because there’s not a replacement vehicle made that checks all these boxes. It’s amazing except for this one small issue. Sure there are little things they could have. done better like add rear a/c vents in the OT+, more cubby’s for storage etc. the HVAC is poor in my opinion, the awkward transmission clunk when shifting from park but these are all adaptable and easily forgotten about after 3 months. This shake and their blind eye approach to run it down is unacceptable and uncharacteristicly evil behavior of Lexus
Incredible. Thank you so much for the clarification. This is very helpful. Lemme get with my tech to get clarification on what he did so far, as I wasn't there when he tried to disconnect the end link. Will report back.eKDSS does not disconnect the sway bar. What it does is relocate the point (rear) or points (front) that the sway bar connects to the frame. This allows one side of the front or rear to droop while the other side compresses, or vice-versa , without twisting the sway bar. But if the fuse is pulled during one of those conditions and the eKDSS can't relocate back then it will be the equivalent of twisting the sway bar with both left and right sides at equal compression, thus transferring more weight to one of the wheels.
If you want to test and see if eKDSS and/or the sway bar is involved, just remove the sway bar end link from the knuckle on one side (left or right). You could do front and back at the same time, or do one then the other then both. Typically off-roaders will tape or zip tie the loose end link to keep it from swinging around and getting damaged.
Saw that too, and I commented to follow the post. Not as easy to just remove the sway bars on the OT models.Just found this on FB. Not sure if he’s on here, but an interesting discovery nonetheless
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Just getting back as I had said I would...he disconnected the end link on one side. Then put it back. So that is really not helpful. But I will continue to see what else we can do to evaluate. Getting it offroad again this weekend too, which will be first time since lift. So, we shall see if things get settled in (or break!! gulp!!) after some serious flex.Incredible. Thank you so much for the clarification. This is very helpful. Lemme get with my tech to get clarification on what he did so far, as I wasn't there when he tried to disconnect the end link. Will report back.