Also, try using the “wire” source and play something “high res” or “FLAC” files. Makes a massive difference. Bluetooth is actually decent in the GX though.
Upgrading speakers in base 10-speaker stereo
- Thread starter Bluegill
- Start date
You usually can’t achieve it by swapping speakers but you can by adding power and more importantly changing the DSP settings which is the key. It’s too early though as the aftermarket hasn’t developed anything that’s plug-n-play. Check the link I posted earlier. These guys should have their setup available soon. This will be a great bang for buck upgrade and likely allow pre- outs for a powered sub. Others will follow with similar architecture as it’s the easiest cost effective way to upgrade. It’s very challenging to work with all the different integrated OE systems these days and retain all features without increasing “noise floor” or screwing up your “hands free” sound etc. If your totally set on it you could go scorched earth and replace all drivers and add amps/dsp. Big $$ though and absolutely a waist unless audiophile is a hobby for you.
- Thread starter
- #24
This is the same advice I received. Truck is too new and no one has really messed with it yet. But the stereo shop would be happy to tear everything out, start fresh, and guarantee it will sound awesome....if I give them a blank check!
I have a premium+ with the base speakers. I just finished changing out the two front corner dash speakers for Kicker KSC350 speakers. They just barely fit, but do not require any cutting or modification. The sound is much clearer, less muffled sounding with less distortion at higher volumes. For anyone interested, the Metra 72-8109 speaker wiring adapters work perfectly so there's no cutting/splicing of wires needed.
I'm interested in upgrading the front and rear door speakers next, but am hesitant to take apart the doors. If anyone knows how to remove the door trim, please share.
I'm interested in upgrading the front and rear door speakers next, but am hesitant to take apart the doors. If anyone knows how to remove the door trim, please share.
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks for the info on the Kickers for the dash and the wiring harness.
The door trim should be the same as any other door trim....just held in by plastic fasteners. Since the vehicle is new you have a very good chance of removing the trim without snapping the fasteners (unlike old, brittle plastic fasteners). A trim tool makes it easy and scratch-free. I've been meaning to remove the rear door trim to see what's really going on back there. I think the lower speaker behind the big mesh covers in the rear doors is just a dummy speaker.
https://www.amazon.com/GOOACC-Remov...locphy=9030078&hvtargid=pla-813603534918&th=1
The door trim should be the same as any other door trim....just held in by plastic fasteners. Since the vehicle is new you have a very good chance of removing the trim without snapping the fasteners (unlike old, brittle plastic fasteners). A trim tool makes it easy and scratch-free. I've been meaning to remove the rear door trim to see what's really going on back there. I think the lower speaker behind the big mesh covers in the rear doors is just a dummy speaker.
https://www.amazon.com/GOOACC-Remov...locphy=9030078&hvtargid=pla-813603534918&th=1
One consideration when replacing factory speakers is aftermarket speakers tend to be less efficient, thus requiring more power to drive them. You'll gain more clarity and range but you'll find yourself having to turn up the volume to reach previous levels of listening.
Since we don't know how the base or ML stereo is set up (amp in head unit or separate amp, crossovers, etc) it's still trial and error. Hopefully the base stereo doesn't have a separate amp and a great way to improve factory sounds is to upgrade the speakers and drive them with an aftermarket amp.
I'm stuck with the ML and not a fan at all.
Since we don't know how the base or ML stereo is set up (amp in head unit or separate amp, crossovers, etc) it's still trial and error. Hopefully the base stereo doesn't have a separate amp and a great way to improve factory sounds is to upgrade the speakers and drive them with an aftermarket amp.
I'm stuck with the ML and not a fan at all.
I think the base system (non-ML) sounds pretty amazing! After reviewing other threads regarding disappointing performance of the ML21 I am even more impressed with the overall sound quality, imaging, separation, and surround effects on the base system. It seems to have a lot of low range power. Does anyone know how many watts the base system puts out?
