Aftermarket Rock Sliders With Step

I'm going to remove my running boards just to see how it looks with nothing on it while waiting for sliders to arrive. My old 1996 Series 80 Land Cruiser started out its life with nothing on there, and I recall thinking it looked kinda cool. Of course, that was 28 years ago so it's a pretty fuzzy memory. It has had running boards on it most of its life, not proper rock sliders, and they are beat up a bit.
I did exactly this and absolutely love the look - but you do get a lot of kick up of dirt, mud and whatever else that the running boards did protect from
 
Forgot to mention that I did look at their early prototype sliders that were bolted to the LC250. Very strong and solid.

NYTOP’s sliders are thicker at 1/4 inch but slimmer in profile than Slee’s. Slee’s sliders look taller based on the photo. I’m not sure if Slee managed to address the light location as I cannot tell from the photo.
SLEE offers a supplementary light kit with thier sliders, but the instructions haven’t been made up yet. Unclear if this relocates existing lights or adds additional. Will advise
 
So most of these rock sliders seem to be steel tubes (strong) but just tubes with big holes - won't that just catch rocks in those huge holes and stick worse on the next cross bar? Rocks won't always slide on the inner or outer tubes that are smooth.

Some have a flat metal surface like the NYTop that looks like rocks may actually slide along them better.

I can see that flat is a sheet and is maybe not as strong, a rock could dig into it and hold but it still seems like a better bet.

What am I missing with all these tube rock sliders?
 
So most of these rock sliders seem to be steel tubes (strong) but just tubes with big holes - won't that just catch rocks in those huge holes and stick worse on the next cross bar? Rocks won't always slide on the inner or outer tubes that are smooth.

Some have a flat metal surface like the NYTop that looks like rocks may actually slide along them better.

I can see that flat is a sheet and is maybe not as strong, a rock could dig into it and hold but it still seems like a better bet.

What am I missing with all these tube rock sliders?
I haven't tested both, but I like the look of the NYTOP ones, and they are made of strong material, so should work well. I've got them on order, but still probably a couple weeks from getting them. I have their Hybrid bumper and rear recovery point, and they are well made. And as reported by others, they came packaged about as well as is possible to package something for shipping. I suspect the tubular ones work ok, but I agree that it seems like something with no gaps in it (either just one tube or a flat arrangement like the NYTOP) would generally work better. Others have more experience than I. I had an offroad truck with round sliders, but was pretty conservative and didn't test it too much.
 
Picked up the NYTOP sliders on Saturday and installed them on Sunday. Took some maneuvering to get them installed, using a Badlands floor jack and jack stands.

Installed the NYTOP skid plates as well. Hard to get any good pictures of the skids.

Took me 3.5 hours for both with a friend's help. Couldn't have done it without help.
 

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Looks good. Mine are on the way. How did you end up attaching the running board light?
I ended up putting the light on the bottom just like what NYTOP did. I could have zip-tied the light somewhere to hide it but decided against it.

I was told there is a light delete kit that would plug into the terminal where the wiring would be. Leaving the terminal bare would expose it to the elements. Just have to find the part if available.
 
I ended up putting the light on the bottom just like what NYTOP did. I could have zip-tied the light somewhere to hide it but decided against it.

I was told there is a light delete kit that would plug into the terminal where the wiring would be. Leaving the terminal bare would expose it to the elements. Just have to find the part if available.
Thanks. When I put mine on I may experiment with putting up above somewhere. I don't get much light from it on my running boards now, so I don't particularly care if it does much. Did you use a floor jack to support the sliders when you were attaching them?
 
Thanks. When I put mine on I may experiment with putting up above somewhere. I don't get much light from it on my running boards now, so I don't particularly care if it does much. Did you use a floor jack to support the sliders when you were attaching them?
Yep, used the floor jack to lift the sliders with a cardboard box to hold them on one side while bolting the other side.
 
Picked up the NYTOP sliders on Saturday and installed them on Sunday. Took some maneuvering to get them installed, using a Badlands floor jack and jack stands.

Installed the NYTOP skid plates as well. Hard to get any good pictures of the skids.

Took me 3.5 hours for both with a friend's help. Couldn't have done it without help.
Hi, finally getting around to putting my sliders on. I have a question about the NYTOP skid plates. Do you feel that they are a material improvement on strength/coverage from the OEM Overtrail plates? Are they going to be a pain for the Lexus service people when the oil/filter is changed?
Thanks for your input,
 
Good question for any third party skid plates. Some have a nice access hatch for oil changes. Most? Not sure about the NYtop ones.
 
I have only done the rear skid plate but the OEM was 0.16" thick and the NYTOP was 0.25" and also had some reinforcing bars on the large flat areas. The front OEM skid plate may be more difficult to remove because the OEM fasteners had built-in washers and the NYTOP hardware had separate washers so I am not sure they will work with the keyhole holes in the front OEM skid plate which are designed to allow you to remove the plate without totally removing the fasteners.
 

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I have only done the rear skid plate but the OEM was 0.16" thick and the NYTOP was 0.25" and also had some reinforcing bars on the large flat areas. The front OEM skid plate may be more difficult to remove because the OEM fasteners had built-in washers and the NYTOP hardware had separate washers so I am not sure they will work with the keyhole holes in the front OEM skid plate which are designed to allow you to remove the plate without totally removing the fasteners.
I still don't get all the holes in it. I know you want it to drain but those seem like dirt and weed scoops to me. not all the 3rd party skid plates have them. The Toyota TRD has almost none which makes more sense.
 

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