See other posts on this, the running board light can be attached up above and not on the bottom of the rail, or not at all as you wish.The picture is from a LC250 but the GX would be the same as confirmed by NYTOP.
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See other posts on this, the running board light can be attached up above and not on the bottom of the rail, or not at all as you wish.The picture is from a LC250 but the GX would be the same as confirmed by NYTOP.
I did exactly this and absolutely love the look - but you do get a lot of kick up of dirt, mud and whatever else that the running boards did protect fromI'm going to remove my running boards just to see how it looks with nothing on it while waiting for sliders to arrive. My old 1996 Series 80 Land Cruiser started out its life with nothing on there, and I recall thinking it looked kinda cool. Of course, that was 28 years ago so it's a pretty fuzzy memory. It has had running boards on it most of its life, not proper rock sliders, and they are beat up a bit.
Hopefull to get my rock sliders soon from NYTOPI did exactly this and absolutely love the look - but you do get a lot of kick up of dirt, mud and whatever else that the running boards did protect from
SLEE offers a supplementary light kit with thier sliders, but the instructions haven’t been made up yet. Unclear if this relocates existing lights or adds additional. Will adviseForgot to mention that I did look at their early prototype sliders that were bolted to the LC250. Very strong and solid.
NYTOP’s sliders are thicker at 1/4 inch but slimmer in profile than Slee’s. Slee’s sliders look taller based on the photo. I’m not sure if Slee managed to address the light location as I cannot tell from the photo.
I haven't tested both, but I like the look of the NYTOP ones, and they are made of strong material, so should work well. I've got them on order, but still probably a couple weeks from getting them. I have their Hybrid bumper and rear recovery point, and they are well made. And as reported by others, they came packaged about as well as is possible to package something for shipping. I suspect the tubular ones work ok, but I agree that it seems like something with no gaps in it (either just one tube or a flat arrangement like the NYTOP) would generally work better. Others have more experience than I. I had an offroad truck with round sliders, but was pretty conservative and didn't test it too much.So most of these rock sliders seem to be steel tubes (strong) but just tubes with big holes - won't that just catch rocks in those huge holes and stick worse on the next cross bar? Rocks won't always slide on the inner or outer tubes that are smooth.
Some have a flat metal surface like the NYTop that looks like rocks may actually slide along them better.
I can see that flat is a sheet and is maybe not as strong, a rock could dig into it and hold but it still seems like a better bet.
What am I missing with all these tube rock sliders?